Vanilla Caramels

I don't remember where I got this recipe.  I found it at a time when I had just discovered the amazing cookbook collection in the Natural Resources library at UC
Berkeley.  There were books for home cooks, professional cooks, old books, new books.  So I was able to compare and contrast dozens of recipes.

The keys to this recipe are to measure very precisely, to use a precise thermometer designed for candy making, and to stir every square inch of the bottom continuously once the mixture begins to boil--scorches are unrecoverable.  You will need 15-30 uninterrupted minutes during which the only thing you are doing is stirring.

As with any candy, the temperature is precisely predicts the final texture.  The boiling point of the solution depends the sugar concentration:  the higher the temperature, the higher the sugar concentration, and the harder the final candy. 

2 C sugar
1 C light corn syrup
1 C sweetened condensed milk (1 standard can is more than 1 C--use ONLY one cup)
1/2 C heavy whipping cream
1/4 C butter
1 C milk (I have used whole and skim milk both with good success)

2 tsp vanilla (don't waste your time with imitation vanilla here; it's not worth it)

optional:  2 C toasted nuts, coarsely chopped (have these measured out before you begin, and keep them warm in a 150 degree oven so they don't cool the candy too quickly when you add them at the end)

Before you start heating, butter an 8 inch square pan.  You won't have time to do this later.

In a large saucepan--I use a six or eight quart pan, because you need a lot of room for the mixture which will dramatically increase in volume as it boils up, and you want lots of room between the hot sugar syrup and your hand--mix together everything but the vanilla.  Over medium high heat, bring to a boil.  Stir constantly, every bit of the bottom of the pot, and regularly also stir along the lower sides of the pot.  Move the thermometer around as you stir so that there are no "dead spots" where the mixture may begin to scorch.

The temperature will increase rapidly to the boiling point, then it goes very slowly as it starts to go above 212.  When it hits 235 degrees, check the temperature very frequently.  You want to get it off the heat immediately when it hits the desired temperature, and keep stirring until it stops boiling.  The original recipe calls for cooking to 248 degrees but in my hands that makes a fairly hard caramel, perhaps because residual heat after it is removed from the burner cooks it just a bit more; I get the best results when I stop cooking at 242-244 degrees. 

Stir in the vanilla and nuts (if using).  Pour into the prepared pan and set aside to cool.  Wait until it is completely cool and set before cutting.  It is easiest to cut if you turn the entire block out of the pan at once (one of the new silicone pans is perfect because you can peel OFF instead of prying the candy OUT), and slice with a very sharp knife rinsed off in hot water between cuts. 

Variation:  Burnt Sugar Caramels

Darker and a little bitter, really just notes on a work in progress

Optional:  1/2-1 tsp sea salt (more if you're using a coarse salt, less for a fine grained variety like table salt)

Mix the condensed milk, cream, butter and milk in your large saucepan, set to low heat to warm to just below boiling.

Measure out and reserve the corn syrup.

In a separate saucepan (I used a three quart pot, and needed all of it before the end), heat the sugar with about a half cup of water.  This can be done without water by melting the sugar directly, but dissolving it and heating the syrup works will with less concern for burning prematurely.  Place over medium heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved.  When the syrup comes to a boil, cover the pan briefly to let the steam wash any undissoved sugar crystals off the sides of the pan.  Uncover and let boil down until it is a dark amber, and remove from heat immediately.

*Very carefully* pour the reserved corn syrup into the hot sugar syrup.  It will boil up violently and try to splatter and burn you.  Stir to mix well, and set aside to let cool down a bit.  If you add it too soon it may curdle the milk, which can't be undone. 

Stir the hot but not actively boiling syrup into the milk mixture, which should be just near boiling.   Cook this down as you would the regular caramels.

And do consider dipping these in fine dark chocolate, perhaps with a tiny sprinkle of additional salt on top. 


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