HUES SPRING 1998 Gun Control: Women Tattoo Artists Talk About Skin and Ink By Silja J.A. Talvi For the past twenty years, Leslie Mah's greatest loves in life have been "tattoos, boots and rock 'n' roll." Elaborately tattooed over much of her own body, Mah, 32, recalls a pivotal conversation several years ago with a male tattooer who urged her to "stop looking for the ultimate, rad girl tattoo artist. Just be her." That conversation led Mah to jump at the chance to begin tattooing over two years ago at San Francisco's all-woman tattoo studio, Black and Blue Tattoo. Artistic, articulate and passionately devoted to their careers, women tattooers like Mah are on the cutting-edge of modern-day tattooing. By exploring new and unique tattooing styles, as well as perfecting the art of "traditional" tattooing, women tattoo artists have finally begun to assert roles of distinct prominence in a field which has always been dominated by men. Although women in the United States have been tattooing in small numbers since the beginning of the early 20th century, many of the earliest female professionals gravitated toward tattooing because of their marriages to male tattoo artists. With few exceptions, these women tattooers rarely received widespread recognition for their work. But over the last decade, tattooing emerged from the 'underground' to become more widely respected and understood as a legitimate art form. Concurrent with this trend, the work of women tattooers began to receive more attention through tattoo magazines, women's tattoo conventions and art exhibits. "People are beginning to realize that this is a form of art, and clients are looking for something unique," explains Robin McClarren, who hosted and co-curated "Annie Get Your Gun, " an one-of-a-kind women's tattoo art exhibit at San Francisco's Place Pigalle. Featuring the paintings, drawings and tattoo art of 11 local women, the exhibit highlighted an amazing variety of styles, images, and interests of the participating artists. "It really is an old-school man's world," says McClarren in reference to tattooing. "I was interested in showing what women artists immersed in an industry both dominated by males and male imagery were doing." And people, it seems, are noticing. Female tattooers point to the fact that most studios in major cities like San Francisco now have at least one female tattooer. "I think there are a lot more women working than people realize," offers Madeline, a gregarious and outgoing 28-year-old tattooer whose desire to see "new places" has taken her all over the world. Having worked in at least ten studios and seven cities including Berlin, New Orleans, Portland, Houston and Dallas (where she works at Parodice Tattoo), Madeline, who only uses one name, admits that she must still deal with the initial surprise of some clients who "come in and think I'm a receptionist." Laura Saadati, the only female tattooer at San Francisco's Primal Urge Studios, entered the profession almost four years ago with full knowledge of the "boy's club" aspect of tattooing. Rather than focus on the occasionally cold or indifferent treatment she receives from other male tattooers, Saadati, 28, pursues her career path without allowing such behavior to affect her. "There are definitely people out there who are totally cool, men who treat me as an equal, and that's who I associate with," she shrugs. Like Saadati, the women involved in tattooing express an overwhelmingly positive affection for their chosen careers. "I've been dreaming about this for a long time. Since I was 15, I just wanted to do art. That's what I wanted to be paid for doing, whether it's sitting in my studio or drawing for my clients," explains the soft-spoken, 27-year-old Sunny Buick. In addition to her work at Goldfield Tattoo Studio, one of the most established and "traditional" tattoo shops in San Francisco, Buick was also responsible for co-curating "Annie Get Your Gun." Buick and other female tattooers readily attest that tattooing is one of the few professions which allows artists to earn a consistent, decent living. But beyond the money that they earn, women tattooers also enjoy the benefits of working in supportive studio environments, meeting interesting clients and honing their artistic skills on a daily basis. "Everyday is different [and] you never quit getting better," says Madeline. "No matter how good you're doing, you can always do better, and so there's always that drive to improve your work." Women tattooers share a profound understanding of the significance of tattoos to their clients. "I get to be a part of a really important step in someone's life, " explains Mah enthusiastically. "I get to help them do something that is really important and permanent. A lot of the people I tattoo, they've been thinking about it [for a long time] and it signifies something special." As tattooing has gained a certain amount of popularity and acceptance, many clients have specifically sought out women tattooers. "I think it's really important to have a woman in the shop," says Buick. "It balances everything out, because some people really prefer to be handled by a woman. They feel more comfortable." According to Buick, about half of her clients are women, a statistic which is echoed by many other women tattooers. But Buick, who likens finding the right tattoo artist to "finding your shaman," doesn't believe that tattoos are for everyone. As a result, she tries to make a connection with each of her clients, as if to sense the significance of the tattoo to their lives. "I think it's important because sometimes tattooing is a complete milestone in someone's life or something that changes them and turns things around for them. Some people shouldn't get tattooed and they think 'Oh, this would be kind of cool.' They come in and they go about it completely the wrong way." The inevitability of dealing with difficult, drunk or intransigent clients count among the most significant challenges facing all professional tattooers. According to Madeline, one of the most common misperceptions about tattooers is that "we'll tattoo anybody, anywhere, anything, anytime." But this, she explains, is simply untrue. Professional tattoo artists work by a strict code which, for instance, prohibits the tattooing of persons under the influence. Saadati explains that it can also be a huge challenge to struggle with a client over a design which the artist knows will not look right as a tattoo. Furthermore, many artists refuse to tattoo swastikas, white power and "property of" insignias, or other designs they consider to be offensive. Female tattoo artists tend to view tattooing as having deep meaning not only for their clients, but also for their own lives. Buick, Saadati, Madeline and Mah are all heavily tattooed themselves, in altogether different styles and traditions. Born to an Irish Catholic mother and a Chinese Muslim father, Mah, who is also a guitarist for the punk band Tribe 8, has found tattooing to reinforce her pride in her identity as a mixed-race woman and as a lesbian. Her tattoos include Catholic and Irish imagery, a Chinese dragon and other symbols of her ethnic and spiritual heritage. "Going from the 'invisible girl' to the 'illustrated woman' is something that tattoos have done for me. I can look down at myself and say 'That's who I am.'" When Saadati, who is half-Persian, began to tattoo professionally and acquire more tattoos on her body, her parents expressed immediate concern. "They wanted to think it was a phase," she explains. Eventually, Saadati's parents reconciled themselves to her career and to her prominent tattoos, which include Persian-influenced designs. "They've seen the way I conduct my life. I'm not living some wacky, alternative lifestyle, doing crazy, weird, perverse stuff that maybe that they had associated with [tattooing]. I think their minds are eased at this point," she says. Despite the emergence of tattooing as a more respected art form, many people continue to hold such stereotypical perceptions of the appearances and lifestyles of tattoo artists. "A lot of people have the misconception that it's a big burly biker dude that will tattoo you," states Buick. While biker tattoo shops continue to exist all over the country, Buick and her fellow artists represent another aspect of the tattooing business. For these artists, intimidation and attitude have no place in the studio. Many female tattooers have extensive background in painting and drawing, in addition to college degrees in the arts. So it is understandable that Madeline bristles at the notion that tattooers are still perceived as "dirty, uneducated, sleazy, no-moral-type people." The truth about these women, and so many others in their field, couldn't be further from that perception. Tattooing, as each woman emphasizes, is all about the passion of creating art while making an honorable living. As Madeline professes, tattooing is the most personally and professionally inspiring career she could have possibly chosen. After all, she explains, "there are so few people in this world who enjoy what they're doing and make a living at it."