4 Austria: Vienna

Linz (on the Danube)

Vienna (on the Danube)

Eisenstadt (south of Vienna, near Hungary): Jewish museum in palace of Samson Wertheimer of Worms, helped Hapsburg Leopold I of Vienna during wars against Turkey. also the Baroque castle where Franz Joseph Haydn conducted concerts for the Esterhazy princes for some 30 years.
Schloss Matzen castle repaired by Peter Kump, founder of NY prestigious cooking school. Owner with wife Margaret Fox of Mendocino's Cafe Beaujolais. B&B, 11 rooms. 707-937-0618 - $140-200 (1996).

+ just south of Vienna: Neusiedl Lake (bird sanctuary) - PICTURES

http://www.thetravelzine.com/Austria_2005_10_Vienna.htm
http://www.burger.si/Austria/AustriaIndex.htm

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Coffee house in restored Secession Building.
Korso Restaurant at Hotel Bristol, Mahlerstrasse 2 (one of best in Austria - Gault-Milau guide + old decor)
Oswald & Kalb, Backerstrasse 14 - tiny, behind St. Stephen's Cathedral, traditional food
Cafe Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 6 - chilled poire William; Fetter Cacao - thick hot chocolate w slivovitz (plum brandy).
Artists: Brauer, Hutter, Fuchs.
Hundertwasser House - N-tram - trees stick out thru living spaces designed for them, grass & trees on the roof; barrel- and spool-shaped pillars support.
Österreichisches Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Austrian Museum of Applied Arts) (MAK) - 5 Stubenring, near the city air terminal and the Vienna Hilton, acorss from Imperial Palace, on Opera Ring (Werner Werkstätte +++).
Academy of Fine Arts, on Stubenring, across from the Stadt-park.
Moll & Moser houses on the Hohe Warte - "first in a scheme for an artist's colony).
Wienerwald greenbelt established 1905.
Gasthaus Zu Den 3 Hacken, Singerstrasse 28, telephone 512-5895, the oldest tavern in Vienna, a few minutes walk from the Domizil.
Museum of Sound
Spanish Riding School

Hundertwasser House is located in the 3. district, Kegelgasse 34-38 / Löwengasse 41-43, at 48°12?26?, just some streets away from the Lithuanian embassy.
http://www.travel2austria.com/?p=191

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Early modern architecture (Sunset July 1990)
Most near the Ringstrasse, which has streetcars.
1. Riesenrad (ferris wheel). 1896. At the edge of the Prater - Vienna's Central Park. In 1949 thriller, The Third Man. East side, nearest Danube.
2. Postsparkasse (postal savings bank). Half-hour walk southwest, across the Danube canal & along the Stubenring. Office by Otto Wagner. Exposed anchor bolts create an orderly pattern across the modular, rectinlinear facade. The surprise is inside: a continuous glass vault floods the banking hall with light.
3. Osterreichisches Museum fur Angewandete Kunst (Austrian Museum of Applied Art). Several blocks farther west, at Stubenring 5.
4. Karlsplatz Stadtbahn (municipal railway station). About 12 long blocks southwest (2 blocks south of the Ringstrasse). Otto Wagner 1898. Elegant.
5. Sezessionhaus (Secession building). Three blocks north, at Friedrichstrasse 12, Joseph Olbrich's famous structure. 1898 built as the new exhibition hall for an seceding artists. Klimt mural illustrating Beethoven's Ninth Symphony.
6. Majolikahaus. Apartment house at Linke Wienzeile 40 (about six blocks west of the S building). Facade covered in flower-decorated ceramic tiles. Wagner built it in 1899 as an investment. Adjoining apartment buildings are from the same period, but are more subdued.
7. Looshaus. In the heart of the old city center, at Michaelerplatz 3, this building combines offices and flats. Designed in 1909 by the theoretician-architect Adolf Loos, it sparked controversy for its apparent radical simplicity. Loos relied on strict proportions and rich materials such as vividly veined green marble to give his building a rich sobriety. The interior is remodeled.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1216/is_n1_v185/ai_9120295

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June 26, 1983 NYT
JUBILEE CELEBRATION MIT SCHLAG
R.W. APPLE JR.
Places to linger
[Rearranged then, then north outskirts.]
Center:
2. Cafe Leopold Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 6 (52-82-30); Wednesday to Monday 8 A.M. to 2 A.M., except Sunday, 4 P.M. to 2 A.M. Bohemian atmosphere.
9. Cafe Braunerhof, Stallburggasse 1 (52-38-93); Monday to Friday 7 A.M. to 8 P.M., Saturday and Sunday 7 A.M. to 7 P.M. Concerts Saturday and Sunday 3 to 6 P.M.
Center, more to the southwest:
5. Cafe Tirolerhof, Tegetthoffstrasse 8 (52-78-33); Monday to Saturday 7 A.M. to 9 P.M., Sunday 10:30 A.M. to 8 P.M.
To south, still in main part:
1. Kleines Cafe, Franziskanerplatz 3 (no telephone); Tuesday to Sunday 1 P.M. to 2 A.M. [Pretty famous.]
To south, a bit farther out:
3. Cafe Schwarzenberg, Karntner Ring 17 (52-73-93); daily 7 A.M. to 1 A.M.
8. Cafe Sirk, Karntnerstrasse 53 (52-73-79); daily 10 A.M. to midnight. Musicians' hangout.
To south, outside ring:
10. Cafe Museum, Friedrichstrasse 6 (56-52-02); daily 7 A.M. to 11 P.M. R.W.A. Jr.
West outskirts:
6. Cafe Sperl, Gumpendorferstrasse 11 (56-41-58); Monday to Saturday 7 A.M. to 11 P.M., Sunday 3 to 11 P.M. Billiards tables.
North, back inside ring:
4. Cafe Central, Herrengasse 14 (52-43-23); daily 7 A.M. to 10 P.M. but closed Sunday and holidays. Patio service in summer.
Northwest, on ring:
7. Cafe Landtmann, Dr. Karl Leuger Ring 4 (63-06-21); daily 8 A.M. to midnight. Favorite of politicians and actors.

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Austria (+ see recipe files)
Vienna - St. Stephen's Cathedral - take elevator to observation deck.
Kunsthistorisches Museum <<<
Belvedere Palace (Klimt, Schiele) + Stökl (cozy restaurant).
Grand dining: Hotel Palais Schwarzenberg.
Schönbrunn Palace
Hundertwasser House - 3 Kegelgasse, corner Löwengasse. Take the U-1 subway from its State Opera-Kalsplatz stop or from Stephansplatz to Schwedenplatz and proceed (free transfer) by N tram to Hetzgasse stop.
Kunsthaus - 13 Untere Weissgerber Strasse - U-1 subway to Schwedenplatz, proceeding by N tram to Radetzkyplatz.
Number 1 streetcar runs the whole length of the horseshoe-shaped Ringstrasse.

St. Marx Cemetary (6-8 Leberstrasse) - 2 miles from city center.

Saturdays along the Linke Wienzeile: Stiegengasse and Eggerthgasse flea markets. Art Deco lamps. Alpine farmers with wine, apples, old lederhosen. BEWARE OF PICKPOCKETS 1990.

Vienna woods/Wienerwald: Stretch from Kahlenberg Heights in the north, westward in a gentle arc through the Föhrenberge (Fir Mountains) towards Baden in the south - 540 square miles.
Northenmost salient of the Alps. The farther from Vienna, the more beautiful the villages and the countryside. Once Vienna had heavily fortified walls, only torn down mid-1800s (and became the Ringstrasse).
Famous wine villages: Grinzing, Nussdorf, Neustift am Walde - close to being Vienna suburbs. Heurigen = wine taverns - now may be full of Japanese + tourists. But still good:
Perchtoldsdorf - 8 miles from city center.
The Helenental - valley 8 miles south of Perchtoldsdorf.
Heiigenkreuz - beautiful Benedictine monastery.
Gumpoldskirchen.
Need good map: Kompass series.
(20-minute walk from end of D tram line (up Zahnradbahnstrasse to the Beethovengang to the Wildgrubgasse, following the "Wanderweg" signs) puts you into the vineyards, dotted with Heuriger taverns)

Baden - spa town + gambling.

Graz - in the wine-growing southeast - second largest city - center of Austrian writers and artists. Grandhotel Wiesler.

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